Author Topic: ‘Escape-From-The-Snow’ Ride  (Read 1480 times)

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‘Escape-From-The-Snow’ Ride
« on: October 02, 2014, 09:30:21 PM »
By Patrick Coleman | CO

The Road ran sinuously under my front tire, trying to escape by zigzagging across the earth, but it was no match for the big Suzuki V-Strom which matched each change of direction tossed its way. This was motorcycling nirvana, compared to the snowy roads of Colorado. I had found an escape in south Texas. The Big Bend country beckoned and I heeded the call.

I trucked my bike to Helotes, TX and met up with Walt K and Billy C, both Yamaha Super Tenere riders. We departed for Big Bend National Park (BBNP) on Monday, February 17th. That morning was cool, cloudy, wet and foggy. Our 2-wheeled tango is tentative, traction is tough to find, as we slip northwest on TX-16 to Medina, looking for FM-337. This is one of the (in)famous “Twisted Sisters” of the Hill Country. Normally, we’d be humming along at a fun pace on 337. However, weather and road conditions say, “take it easy,” and we listen. Past Leakey, TX the road dries and the ride to Camp Wood picks up speed and entertainment value.

Turning northwest, we travel TX-55 to Rock Springs, where we find lunch and fuel. The sun is out and roads are dry. It is a perfectly beautiful day for motorcycling. We continue to ride secondary roads to Pandale, TX and find FM-2083, which is dirt! We head south, enjoying the change of pace and scenery one finds only on a lonely dirt road. This road put some “adventure” in our ride.



Eventually we dump out at Langtry, TX, onto US-90 and aim west for Sanderson, TX. This will be our stop for the night. It’s been a 400 mile day and it feels great to turn a throttle at speed again, on twisty roads. I’ve already forgotten the cold and snow back home. We dine on tacos and enchiladas, then head for bed.

Tuesday, February 18, dawns clear and cool (48 degrees F). Electric vests and grips have us comfortably traveling west again on US-90. The sun works its magic and by the time we reach Marathon, TX electric gear is no longer needed. We head south on US-385 to BBNP. The posted speed limit is too low, but the anti-fun league is out in force (pulling people over) and reminding us that, even out here, “the man” is still keeping us down.

The scenery is mountainous, dry and sparsely vegetated. Trees are non-existent. There is no shade to be found. BIG BEND SHOULD BE AVOIDED IN SUMMER. This February day the temperature will exceed 90 degrees F. We gas up at Panther Junction and take Chisos Basin Road up the mountain to cool off. The road up is twisty and fun, but ends too soon. Lunch is at the lodge, enjoying the stunning views of Chisos Basin. We cool our heels in the shadow of Emory Peak, rising 7825 feet above sea-level. Not bad for Texas!



We continued exploring the west side of the park, stopping at Sotol Vista Overlook to see the distant, but impressive, Santa Elena Canyon. We stopped at Mule Ears Overlook to see two rock formations that stick up, giving the impression of “mule ears” in the desert. Pressing on, we came to the Rio Grande River and the massive Santa Elena Canyon. This 1500-foot deep “gash” in the rock was carved out by the river and extends for eight miles, getting as narrow as 30 feet in places. Pulling into the Santa Elena viewing area, we see several motorcycles and familiar faces from the MSTA! Former club President Dave “Brick” Brickner and three other club members are enjoying BBNP on this day. They are traveling back to North Carolina after riding out to Baja California. (Such a small world!)

After taking some photos and marveling at the canyon, it’s time to head for Terlingua. Old Maverick Road looks like a “dirty” shortcut, so we take it. The 14 miles of rocky, washboard, dusty road takes it’s toll on the bikes. Casualties include two loose mirrors, an absent GPS mounting bolt and a missing-in-action chain guard bolt. We made roadside repairs and continued onto Terlingua. Drinking a cold beer and watching the sunset that evening was a wonderful way to cap off 200 miles of riding and exploring this day.

Wednesday, February 19, we started the day with a gas stop and breakfast in Terlingua. We rode west on RM-170 through Lajitas, Presidio, Ruidosa and Candelaria. Along the route were teepees, overlooks of the Rio Grande River and old movie locations. Photo ops were many, as we took our time and enjoyed this part of the country. Just outside Candelaria is a place where the Rio Grande is not very Grande at all. It was apparent that this narrow part of the river was a convenient place for people to cross back and forth, to and from Mexico, frequently and unofficially.



We spent the hot afternoon riding back to Terlingua. We made one stop in Lajitas to get some water and play with the local goats. We covered
248 miles in temps mostly above 90 degrees that day. That evening, beer in hand, we watched the glow of old Sol slip behind the mountains, while we reflected on another great day of riding.

Thursday, February 20, was departure day from the BBNP area. West on RM-170, not stopping to look at the sights. We attacked the road, having a blast and it was thankfully much cooler. Temps were in the 60s and 70s making for better riding weather. The dirt ride of the day was Pinto Canyon Road. We let some air out of the tires and took off. The road started off a bit flat and boring, but soon gained elevation and impressiveness. (This is more like it!) The dirt lasted for 20 miles and the terrain was challenging for our “plus-sized” dual-sport scooters. No sand, no traffic, made for awesome riding. That’s part of the charm of this area—the solitude.

We gassed up in Marfa and aired up the tires to street riding pressures. We followed TX-17 to Fort Davis and lunch. The malts served up at the Fort Davis Drug Store were delicious. After lunch we rode the 71 mile “Fort Davis Loop.” Highlights were a stop at the McDonald Observatory and the section of road from TX-118 up to the TX-166 intersection; I could do that bit over and over again!

Our stop for the night was Alpine, TX. With its many hotels, restaurants and retail stores, it was apparent that Alpine was a return to civilization. After four days of solitude, I was ready for “civilization” again. Total mileage this day was 290, but it felt like more. What a great February day to be riding a motorcycle.



Friday, February 21, was simply “get back home” day. We weren’t interested in scenery or fun roads. Just make for Helotes, TX in a hurry. That meant US-67 going northeast and I-10 due east to Boerne, TX. From there, Walt K lead us back to the house. Surprise of the day? WIND! We really got blown around. The gusts were so strong, it felt like they were going to snatch the front wheel right from under the bike. This was “adventure riding” without the dirt! Once we got into the Hill Country, however, the trees and hills ended our wind problems. This day was basically 365 miles of interstate droning, but we made it back to starting point, safely.

With the trip over, I was able to reflect back on what a wonderful escape from the snow and cold I’d just experienced. I needed this 2-wheeled time. I needed the warmth. I needed the beautiful scenery. I needed some time with two wonderful riding buddies. I needed this escape from the daily grind, simply to recharge my batteries. South Texas and the Big Bend Country provided all of that.

If you want to go . . . Denver, CO to Terlingua, TX is only 847 miles. Put your bike in the truck or on the trailer and head out. It will feel like you cheated the space-time continuum, ended winter early and found great summertime riding again. And that’s a great feeling!